Na Peel ea Hydroxy Acid Skin Peel e ka fokotsa Lintlha?
Ka lipatlisiso tse ntseng li eketseha ka se bakang wrinkles le liphello tsa photoaging , alpha hydroxy acid e eketsehile haholo ho tsebahala.
Alpha hydroxy acids e 'nile ea sebelisoa ka lilemo tse likete e le sehlahisoa se hlasimollang letlalo. Ho boleloa hore Cleopatra o hlatsoa lebese le bolila (lactic acid) ho ntlafatsa letlalo la hae. Hona joale li-hydroxy acid li na le pheko e tloaelehileng ho lihlahisoa tse ngata tsa tlhokomelo ea letlalo, ho kopanyelletsa le li- moisturizers , cleaners, toners le mask.
Kakaretso le Mefuta ea Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acid e tsoa ho litholoana tsa lebese le tsoekere. Alpha e sebelisoang ka ho fetisisa e sebelisoang haholo ke glycolic acid le lactic acid hobane ba na le bokhoni bo ikhethang ba ho kenella letlalong. Ba boetse ba na le boitsebiso ba saense ka ho fetisisa mabapi le katleho ea bona le litla-morao tsa bona. Tse latelang ke mefuta e mehlano e meholo ea alpha hydroxy acid e fumanoang lihlahisoa tsa skincare le mehloli ea tsona:
- Glycolic acid: lehlaka la tsoekere
- Asiti ea lactic: lebese
- Malic acid : liapole le lipere
- Citric acid: li-orang le Lemons
- Tartaric acid: morara
Kamoo Alpha Hydroxy Acids e Sebetsang Kateng
Alpha hydroxy acids e sebetsa haholo e le ea exfoliant . Li etsa hore lisele tsa epidermis (karolo e ka holimo ea letlalo) li "se ke tsa hlajoa" li lumella lisele tsa letlalo tse shoeleng hore li fokotsehe, li etse sebaka sa ho khutlisetsa letlalo le lecha. Alpha hydroxy acid e ka ba ea susumetsa tlhahiso ea collagen le elastin.
Ho tlalehoa hore alpha hydroxy acids e ntlafatsa wrinkling, ho lemala le ho penta ha molomo oa letlalo le nang le photodemagedite ka mor'a likhoeli tsa tšebeliso ea letsatsi le leng le le leng.
Alpha hydroxy acids e fumanoang lihlahisoa tsa skincare e sebetsa hantle ka ho fetisisa ho karolo ea 5 ho ea ho ea 8 le pH ea 3 ho ea ho e 4.
Litla-morao tsa Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Litla-morao tse kholo tsa alpha hydroxy acids ke ho halefa le ho utloahala ha letsatsi. Matšoao a ho halefisa a kenyeletsa bofubelu, ho chesa, ho hlohlona, bohloko le mohlomong ho ba boima.
Batho ba nang le letlalo le mebala le lefifing ba kotsing e kholo ea ho ba le likhahla tse nang le li-pigment tse fetohileng ka alpha hydroxy acids. Tšebeliso ea alpha hydroxy acid e ka eketsa kutloisiso ea letsatsi ka karolo ea 50 lekholong, e bakang bothata bo thahasellisang.
Ho bonahala eka alpha-acidixy acids e ka khona ho etsolla tšenyo e bakiloeng ke photoaging, empa ka nako e tsoanang, ba etsa hore letlalo le khone ho ba le photoaging. Ho hlakile hore mang kapa mang ea sebelisang alpha hydroxy acid o lokela ho sebelisa sefate se sireletsang letsatsi se nang le tšireletso ea UVA le UVB . Hlokomela hore li-sunscreens tse ngata ha li sireletse khahlanong le mahlaseli a UVA, mahlaseli a mangata a amehang botsofaling ba letlalo.
Tsamaiso ea FDA
Ka lebaka la matšoenyeho ka litla-morao tsa alpha hydroxy acids, FDA ka 1997 e phatlalalitse hore alpha hydroxy acids e sireletsehile bakeng sa ho sebelisoa ke bareki ka tataiso e latelang:
- Mohopolo oa AHA ke karolo ea 10 lekholong kapa tlase
- Sehlahisoa sa ho qetela se na le pH ea 3.5 kapa e phahameng
- Sehlahisoa sa ho qetela se tlameha ho ba le sekontiri sa letsatsi se atlehileng ha ho etsoa kapa ho lemosa batho hore ba sebelise lihlahisoa tse sireletsang letsatsi
Lik'hamera tsa Lik'hemik'hale
Alpha hydroxy acids tse fapaneng haholo li sebelisoa lik'hemik'hale tsa lik'hemik'hale. Lik'hemik'hale tsena tsa lik'hemik'hale li fana ka liphello tse tšoanang le li- microdermabrasion tse fokolang-lekaneng le ho fana ka letlalo ka ponahalo e bonolo ka mokhoa o le mong ho ba bararo.
Leha ho le joalo, phekolo ena e lokela ho phetoa ka likhoeli tse tharo kapa tse tšeletseng ho boloka letlalo lena le shebahala. Lingaka li ka sebelisa lihlahisoa tsa alpha hydroxy acid tse nang le karolo ea 50 ho isa ho 70 lekholong. Alpha hydroxy chemical peel phekolo e boetse e senya litlhaka le ho tlosa lisaba tsa holim'a metsi, empa liphello li tšoarella nako e telele-ho fihlela lilemo tse peli ho isa ho tse hlano.
Ha mohopolo oa alpha hydroxy acid o phahame ka ho fetisisa ho sebelisoa lik'hemik'hale, lik'hemik'hale tsa letlalo li hlaha haholoanyane. Maemong a 50 lekholong a mahloriso a etsang karolo ea 50 ho isa ho 70, motho a ka lebella ho ba le letlalo le khubelu, le hloekileng le le bohale le ka tšoarellang libeke tse 1 ho isa ho tse 4.
Alpha vs. Beta Hydroxy Acids
Ho na le beta e le 'ngoe feela ea hydroxy acid : salicylic acid .
Phapang e khōlō pakeng tsa alpha hydroxy acids le beta hydroxy acid ke potso ea bona ea lipid (oli). Alpha hydroxy acids e na le metsi a lekaneng feela, athe beta hydroxy acid ke lipid (oli) e tsitsitseng. Sena se bolela hore beta hydroxy acid e khona ho kenella ka pore, e nang le sebum le ho tlosa lisele tsa letlalo tse shoeleng ka har'a pore.
Ka lebaka la phapang ena maruong, beta hydroxy acid e sebelisoa hamolemo ka letlalo la mafura ka li- black and whiteheads . Alpha hydroxy acids e sebelisoa habonolo ka letlalo le senyehileng ha letsatsi le senyehile moo ho phomoloang ha ho bothata.
Ho Khetha Sehlahiswa sa Acid Hydroxy Acid
Alpha hydroxy acids e fumanoa lihlahisoa tse fapaneng tsa skincare, ho kopanyelletsa le ho noa moriana, ho hloekisa, tranelate ea mahlo, ho sireletsa letsatsi le metheo. Leha ho le joalo, ho molemo ho khetha sehlahisoa se nang le sebopeho se nepahetseng sa alpha hydroxy acid ho se sebelisa joaloka exfoliant, ebe o khetha lihlahisoa tse ling tsa tlhokomelo ea letlalo kapa litlolo tse sa nang le alpha hydroxy acid ho fokotsa monyetla oa ho halefa ha letlalo.
Ho sebelisa alpha-hydroxy acid ka botlaaseng ba mongobo e ka ba motsoako o motle ka ho fetisisa oa lihlahisoa. Bahloekisi ba nang le alpha hydroxy acid ha ba atlehe hobane alpha hydroxy acid e lokela ho kenngoa letlalong ho ea sebetsa. Batho ba hloekisang ba hlatsoa pele ponahalo ena e etsahala.
Setlolo se sireletsang letsatsi se lokela ho sebelisoa ka bolokolohi ha se sebelisoa alpha-acid acid sehlahisoa. Setlolo sa letsatsi se lokela ho ba le SPF ea bonyane 15 bakeng sa tšireletso ea UVB 'me e na le avobenzone, titanium dioxide kapa zinc oxide bakeng sa tšireletso ea UVA.
Alpha hydroxy acids e sebetsa ka ho fetisisa ka har'a karolo ea 5 ho isa ho ea 8 lekholong le ka pH ea 3 ho isa ho 4. Ka bomalimabe, baetsi ba litlolo ha ba hlokehe ho fana ka tlhahisoleseding ea mahloriso holim'a letšoao. E le molao o tloaelehileng oa motsoako o motona, ho ba le alpha hydroxy acid e thathamisitsoeng e le karolo ea bobeli kapa ea boraro lethathamong lena ho etsa hore ho be le mohopolo o nepahetseng. Tsela e le 'ngoe feela ea ho tseba hantle hore pH ea sehlahisoa ke ho hlahloba ka pH strip.
Tlhaloso e tlaase ka Alpha Hydroxy Acids bakeng sa ho Wrinkling
Alpha hydroxy acids e le motsoako oa li-moisturizers, creams, kapa lihlahisoa tse ling tsa letlalo li ka fetola tšenyo e bakoang ke photoaging. Ka sebōpeho sa lik'hemik'hale, haholo-holo ha ho e-na le libaka tse phahameng liofising tsa lingaka, li-acid tsena li ka ntlafatsa ponahalo ea litlhaka le litlolo tse ntle bakeng sa lilemo tse seng kae. Alpha hydroxy acids e atisa ho sebetsa hantle bakeng sa batho ba nang le letlalo le senyehileng, ba senyehileng letsatsing, athe beta hydroxy acids e ka ba khetho e ntle ho ba nang le letlalo le nang le letlalo le nang le mafura.
Ho sa tsotellehe bokhoni ba bona ba ho ntlafatsa ponahalo ea letlalo le senyehileng letsatsing, alpha hydroxy acids e ka boela ea eketsa kutloisiso ea letsatsi le ho eketsa menyetla ea ho senyeha ha letlalo ka tlhahiso ea letsatsi. Ho apara sefate se sireletsehileng sa letsatsing se akarelletsang ho fana ka libuka tsa mahlaseli a mabeli a UVA le UVB ke habohlokoa haeba u khetha ho sebelisa lihlahisoa tsena.
> Mehloli:
> Tran, D., Townley, J., Barnes, T., le K. Greive. Setsi sa Ts'ebeliso ea Letlalo la ho Thibela Matlalo le Nang le Alpha Hydroxy Acids le Li-Vithamine Ho ntlafatsa Mefuta ea Biomechanical ea Sefahleho sa Letlalo. Dermatology ea Meriana ea Meriana, ea Litlolo le ea ho Etsa Lipatlisiso . 2014. 8: 9-17.
> Hantle, Richard PJB, Hamish JA Hunter le Margaret W. Mann. Kalafo ea Meriana ea Meriana. Chichester (West Sussex): John Wiley & Sons Inc., 2015. Print.